Idealized numerical modeling of thermally driven baroclinic exchange is performed to understand how cross‐shore flow is modulated by steady alongshore currents and associated shear‐generated turbulence. In general, we find that shear‐driven vertical mixing reduces the temperature gradients responsible for establishing the baroclinic flow, such that cross‐shore thermal exchange diminishes with alongshore current speed. Circulation in a base‐case simulation of thermal exchange with no alongshore forcing contains a cooling response consisting of a midday flow in the form of a downslope current with a compensating onshore near‐surface flow driving cross‐shore exchange, followed by an afternoon warming response flow via an offshore‐directed surface warm front, with a compensating return flow at the bottom. Nighttime convective cooling enhances vertical mixing and decelerates the warming response, and the diurnal cycle is renewed. In this base‐case scenario, representative of tropical reef environments with optically clear water and weak alongshore flow, surface heating and cooling can drive cross‐shore circulation with
Currents transport sediment, larvae, pollutants, and people across and along the surfzone, creating a dynamic interface between the coastal ocean and shore. Previous field studies of nearshore flows primarily have relied on relatively low spatial resolution deployments of in situ sensors, but the development of remote sensing techniques using optical imagery and naturally occurring foam as a flow tracer has allowed for high spatial resolution observations (on the order of a few meters) across the surfzone. Here, algorithms optical current meter (OCM) and particle image velocimetry (PIV) are extended from previous surfzone applications and used to estimate both cross-shore and alongshore 2-, 10-, and 60-min mean surface currents in the nearshore using imagery from both oblique and nadir viewing angles. Results are compared with in situ current meters throughout the surfzone for a wide range of incident wave heights, directions, and directional spreads. Differences between remotely sensed flows and in situ current meters are smallest for nadir viewing angles, where georectification is simplified. Comparisons of 10-min mean flow estimates from a nadir viewing angle with in situ estimates of alongshore and cross-shore currents had correlations
- PAR ID:
- 10562473
- Publisher / Repository:
- American Meteorological Society
- Date Published:
- Journal Name:
- Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology
- Volume:
- 42
- Issue:
- 1
- ISSN:
- 0739-0572
- Format(s):
- Medium: X Size: p. 33-46
- Size(s):
- p. 33-46
- Sponsoring Org:
- National Science Foundation
More Like this
-
Abstract O (1) cm s−1velocities. Alongshore flow forcing is implemented to induce upwelling‐ and downwelling‐favorable cross‐shore circulation. For mild alongshore forcing, the baroclinic cross‐shore exchange flow is enhanced due to an increase in the horizontal temperature gradient. Stronger alongshore flow leads to diminished thermally driven exchange, ultimately reaching a regime where the cross‐shore exchange is due predominantly to Ekman dynamics. Though exchange velocities are relatively small (O (1) cm s−1), these persistent exchange flows are capable of flushing the nearshore region multiple times per day, with important implications for water properties of nearshore ecosystems. -
Low-frequency, many-minute-period horizontal surfzone eddies are an important mechanism for the dispersion of material, transporting larvae, pollutants, sediment, and swimmers both across and along the nearshore. Previous numerical, laboratory, and field observations on alongshore uniform bathymetry with no or roughly uniform mean background flows suggest that the low-frequency eddies may be the result of a two-dimensional inverse energy cascade that transfers energy from relatively small spatial-scale vorticity injected by depth limited breaking waves to larger and larger spatial scales. Here, using remotely sensed high-spatial resolution estimates of currents, those results are extended to surfzones with strong complex mean circulation patterns [flows O(1 m/s)] owing to nonuniform bathymetry. Similar to previous results, wavenumber spectra and second-order structure functions calculated from the observations are consistent with a two-dimensional inverse energy cascade. The size of the largest eddies is shown to depend on the surfzone width and the spatial scales of the mean currents. Third-order structure functions also are consistent with an inverse cascade for spatial scales greater than ∼50 m. At smaller scales, the third-order structure functions suggest a mixture of inverse and forward cascades.
-
Abstract Temperature variability in the nearshore (from ≈6‐m depth to the shoreline) is influenced by many processes including wave breaking and internal waves. A nearshore heat budget resolving these processes has not been considered. A 7‐month experiment at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography Pier (shoreline to 6‐m depth) measured temperature and surface and cross‐shore heat fluxes to examine a nearshore heat budget with fine cross‐shore spatial (≈20 m) and temporal (5 day to 4 h) resolution. Winds, waves, air and water temperature, and in particular, pier end stratification varied considerably from late Fall to late Spring. The largest heat flux terms were shortwave solar radiation and baroclinic advective heat flux both varying on tidal time scales. The net heat flux is coherent and in phase with the nearshore heat content change at diurnal and semidiurnal frequencies. The binned mean heat budget has squared correlation
R 2=0.97 and best‐fit slope of 0.76. Including an elevated breaking wave albedo parameterization reduced the residual heat flux and improved the best‐fit slope. Baroclinic and barotropic advective heat fluxes have significant noise, and removing them from the heat budget improves the best‐fit slope when stratification is weak. However, when daily mean stratification is large, baroclinic advective heat flux dominates variability and is required to capture large (≈3 °C h−1) internal wave events. At times, large heat budget residuals highlight neglected heat budget terms, pointing to surfzone alongshore advection of temperature anomalies. -
null (Ed.)Abstract Low-frequency currents and eddies transport sediment, pathogens, larvae, and heat along the coast and between the shoreline and deeper water. Here, low-frequency currents (between 0.1 and 4.0 mHz) observed in shallow surfzone waters for 120 days during a wide range of wave conditions are compared with theories for generation by instabilities of alongshore currents, by ocean-wave-induced sea surface modulations, and by a nonlinear transfer of energy from breaking waves to low-frequency motions via a two-dimensional inverse energy cascade. For these data, the low-frequency currents are not strongly correlated with shear of the alongshore current, with the strength of the alongshore current, or with wave-group statistics. In contrast, on many occasions, the low-frequency currents are consistent with an inverse energy cascade from breaking waves. The energy of the low-frequency surfzone currents increases with the directional spread of the wave field, consistent with vorticity injection by short-crested breaking waves, and structure functions increase with spatial lags, consistent with a cascade of energy from few-meter-scale vortices to larger-scale motions. These results include the first field evidence for the inverse energy cascade in the surfzone and suggest that breaking waves and nonlinear energy transfers should be considered when estimating nearshore transport processes across and along the coast.more » « less
-
Abstract Rip currents are generated by surfzone wave breaking and are ejected offshore inducing inner-shelf flow spatial variability (eddies). However, surfzone effects on the inner-shelf flow spatial variability have not been studied in realistic models that include both shelf and surfzone processes. Here, these effects are diagnosed with two nearly identical twin realistic simulations of the San Diego Bight over summer to fall where one simulation includes surface gravity waves (WW) and the other that does not (NW). The simulations include tides, weak to moderate winds, internal waves, submesoscale processes, and have surfzone width L sz of 96(±41) m (≈ 1 m significant wave height). Flow spatial variability metrics, alongshore root mean square vorticity, divergence, and eddy cross-shore velocity, are analyzed in a L sz normalized cross-shore coordinate. At the surface, the metrics are consistently (> 70%) elevated in the WW run relative to NW out to 5 L sz offshore. At 4 L sz offshore, WW metrics are enhanced over the entire water column. In a fixed coordinate appropriate for eddy transport, the eddy cross-shore velocity squared correlation betweenWWand NW runs is < 0.5 out to 1.2 km offshore or 12 time-averaged L sz . The results indicate that the eddy tracer ( e.g. , larvae) transport and dispersion across the inner-shelf will be significantly different in the WW and NW runs. The WW model neglects specific surfzone vorticity generation mechanisms. Thus, these inner-shelf impacts are likely underestimated. In other regions with larger waves, impacts will extend farther offshore.more » « less