<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rdf:RDF xmlns:rdf="http://www.w3.org/1999/02/22-rdf-syntax-ns#" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:dcq="http://purl.org/dc/terms/"><records count="1" morepages="false" start="1" end="1"><record rownumber="1"><dc:product_type>Journal Article</dc:product_type><dc:title>Rip current likelihood as a function of incident wave conditions for different bathymetries</dc:title><dc:creator>Choi, Junwoo (ORCID:0000000198748575); Elgar, Steve; Kirby, James T</dc:creator><dc:corporate_author/><dc:editor/><dc:description>The likelihood of rip currents as a function of water depth (tidal level), incident wave height, period, direction,
and spectral spreading in both frequency and direction is investigated with a Boussinesq numerical model
(FUNWAVE) for alongshore uniform, moderately variable, and strongly variable bathymetry, providing two-
dimensional probability distributions of rip-current occurrence along the coast. The simulations suggest that
over strongly irregular alongshore bathymetry rip-current likelihood increases with longer wave periods and
narrower directional spectra. In contrast, over more uniform alongshore bathymetry, rip current likelihood in-
creases with shorter wave periods and broader directional spectra. The simulations suggest that as bathymetric
variability increases, the effects of different incident wave fields decreases.</dc:description><dc:publisher>Elsevier</dc:publisher><dc:date>2025-09-01</dc:date><dc:nsf_par_id>10668552</dc:nsf_par_id><dc:journal_name>Applied Ocean Research</dc:journal_name><dc:journal_volume>162</dc:journal_volume><dc:journal_issue>C</dc:journal_issue><dc:page_range_or_elocation>104727</dc:page_range_or_elocation><dc:issn>0141-1187</dc:issn><dc:isbn/><dc:doi>https://doi.org/10.1016/j.apor.2025.104727</dc:doi><dcq:identifierAwardId>2341381</dcq:identifierAwardId><dc:subject>Rip currents
rip-current likelihood
Numerical simulation
FUNWAVE
Surf currents</dc:subject><dc:version_number/><dc:location/><dc:rights/><dc:institution/><dc:sponsoring_org>National Science Foundation</dc:sponsoring_org></record></records></rdf:RDF>