An official website of the United States government
Abstract A 3D large eddy simulation coupled with a free surface tracking scheme was used to simulate cross‐shore hydrodynamics as observed in a large wave flume experiment. The primary objective was to enhance the understanding of wave‐backwash interactions and the implications for observed morphodynamics. Two simulation cases were carried out to elucidate key processes of wave‐backwash interactions across two distinct stages: berm erosion and sandbar formation, during the early portion of a modeled storm. The major difference between the two cases was the bathymetry: one featuring a berm without a sandbar (Case I), and the other, featuring a sandbar without a berm (Case II) at similar water depth. Good agreement (overall Willmott's index of agreement greater than 0.8) between simulations and measured data in free surface elevation, wave spectrum, and flow velocities validated the model skill. The findings indicated that the bottom shear stress, represented by the Shields parameter, was significant in both cases, potentially contributing substantial sediment transport. Notably, the occurrence of intense wave‐backwash interactions were more frequent in the absence of a sandbar. These intense wave‐backwash interactions resulted in a pronounced horizontal pressure gradient, quantified by high Sleath parameters, exceeding the criteria for momentary bed failure. Additionally, a more vigorous turbulence‐bed interaction, characterized by near‐bed turbulent kinetic energy, was observed in the case lacking a sandbar, potentially augmenting sediment suspension. These insights are pivotal in understanding the mechanisms underlying berm erosion and how sandbar formation serves to protect further beach erosion.
more »
« less
Post-Hurricane Michael damage assessment using ADCIRC storm surge hindcast, image classification, and LiDAR
Wave forcing from hurricanes, nor’easters, and energetic storms can cause erosion of the berm and beach face resulting in increased vulnerability of dunes and coastal infrastructure. LIDAR or other surveying techniques have quantified post-event morphology, but there is a lack of in situ hydrodynamic and morphodynamic measurements during extreme storm events. Two field studies were conducted in March 2018 and April 2019 at Bethany Beach, Delaware, where in situ hydrodynamic and morphodynamic measurements were made during a nor’easter (Nor’easter Riley) and an energetic storm (Easter Eve Storm). An array of sensors to measure water velocity, water depth, water elevation and bed elevation were mounted to scaffold pipes and deployed in a single cross-shore transect. Water velocity was measured using an electro-magnetic current meter while water and bed elevations were measured using an acoustic distance meter along with an algorithm to differentiate between the water and bed during swash processes. GPS profiles of the beach face were measured during every day-time low tide throughout the storm events. Both accretion and erosion were measured at different cross-shore positions and at different times during the storm events. Morphodynamic change along the back-beach was found to be related to berm erosion, suggesting an important morphologic feedback mechanism. Accumulated wave energy and wave energy flux per unit area between Nor’easter Riley and a recent mid-Atlantic hurricane (Hurricane Dorian) were calculated and compared. Coastal Observations: JALBTCX/NCMP emergency-response airborne Lidar coastal mapping & quick response data products for 2016/2017/2018 hurricane impact assessments
more »
« less
- Award ID(s):
- 1541089
- PAR ID:
- 10302289
- Date Published:
- Journal Name:
- Shore & Beach
- Volume:
- 87
- Issue:
- 4
- ISSN:
- 0037-4237
- Page Range / eLocation ID:
- 3 to 14
- Format(s):
- Medium: X
- Sponsoring Org:
- National Science Foundation
More Like this
-
-
Abstract During a storm, as the beach profile is impacted by increased wave forcing and rapidly changing water levels, sand berms may help mitigate erosion of the backshore. However, the mechanics of berm morphodynamics have not been fully described. In this study, 26 trials were conducted in a large wave flume to explore the response of a near‐prototype berm to scaled storm conditions. Sensors were used to quantify hydrodynamics, sheet flow dynamics, and berm evolution. Results indicate that berm overtopping and offshore sediment transport were key processes causing berm erosion. During the morphological evolution of the beach profile, two sand bars were formed offshore that attenuated subsequent wave energy. The landward extent of that energy was confined to the seaward foreshore, inhibiting inundation of the backshore. Net offshore‐directed transport was dominant when infragravity motions increased in the swash zone. Conversely, the influence of incident‐band motions on sediment transport was relatively greater in the inner‐surf zone. Near‐bed flow velocities and sheet flow layer thicknesses were larger in the swash zone than in the inner‐surf zone. This paper also provides a valuable analysis between morphology‐estimated total sediment transport rates and rates derived from in situ measurements. Sheet flow dynamics dominated foreshore cross‐shore sediment processes, constituting the largest portion of the total sediment transport load throughout the berm erosion.more » « less
-
null (Ed.)During tropical cyclones, processes including dune erosion, overwash, inundation, and storm-surge ebb can rapidly reshape barrier islands, thereby increasing coastal hazards and flood exposure inland. Relatively few measurements are available to evaluate the physical processes shaping coastal systems close to shore during these extreme events as it is inherently challenging to obtain reliable field data due to energetic waves and rapid bed level changes which can damage or shift instrumentation. However, such observations are critical toward improving and validating model forecasts of coastal storm hazards. To address these data and knowledge gaps, this study links hydrodynamic and meteorological observations with numerical modeling to 1) perform data-model inter-comparisons of relevant storm processes, namely infragravity (IG) waves, storm surge, and meteotsunamis; and 2) better understand the relative importance of each of these processes during hurricane impact.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/kUizy8nK3TUmore » « less
-
Erosion of coastal dunes during storm events is an increasingly common problem in the face of global climate change and sea-level rise. To investigate the efficacy of bio-mediated ground improvement for reducing the impact of extreme events such as hurricanes, a near-prototype-scale experiment was performed. In the experiment, a model sand dune was constructed in a large wave flume and divided into treated and untreated zones which were instrumented with pressure and moisture sensors. One of the treated sections was subjected to a surface-spray technique to apply bio-cementation. Afterward, the dune was subjected to a discretized severe storm event (a scaled Hurricane Sandy) consisting of 25 trials. Surge runup and drawdown cause surface erosion and also internal instability due to liquefaction. Pore pressure sensors were embedded in different depths of the dune to study the pressure fluctuations during the wave action and the consequent momentary liquefaction phenomenon. Momentary liquefaction leads to detachment of fine sand particles and the initiation of internal erosion and sediment transport. In this project, remote assessment technology (lidar) was used between each trial to evaluate the performance of the dune under the surge flow by detecting the eroded volume of the sand. To better quantify material properties in-situ, a series of triaxial experiments were conducted on bio-cemented cores taken from the formed crust. The strength and stiffness of the cemented sand were measured under different drainage conditions. Element test results indicate a significant increase in critical bed shear stress (τc) due to cementation.more » « less
-
A broadly accepted paradigm is that vegetation reduces coastal dune erosion. However, we show that during an extreme storm event, vegetation surprisingly accelerates erosion. In 104-m-long beach-dune profile experiments conducted within a flume, we discovered that while vegetation initially creates a physical barrier to wave energy, it also (i) decreases wave run-up, which creates discontinuities in erosion and accretion patterns across the dune slope, (ii) increases water penetration into the sediment bed, which induces its fluidization and destabilization, and (iii) reflects wave energy, accelerating scarp formation. Once a discontinuous scarp forms, the erosion accelerates further. These findings fundamentally alter the current understanding of how natural and vegetated features may provide protection during extreme events.more » « less
- Free Publicly Accessible Full Text
-
Accepted Manuscript1.0
- Journal Article:
- https://doi.org/10.34237/1008741
