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The effects of surfactants on a mechanically generated plunging breaker are studied experimentally in a laboratory wave tank. Waves are generated using a dispersively focused wave packet with a characteristic wavelength of$$\lambda _0 = 1.18$$m. Experiments are performed with two sets of surfactant solutions. In the first set, increasing amounts of the soluble surfactant Triton X-100 are mixed into the tank water, while in the second set filtered tap water is left undisturbed in the tank for wait times ranging from 15 min to 21 h. Increasing Triton X-100 concentrations and longer wait times lead to surfactant-induced changes in the dynamic properties of the free surface in the tank. It is found that low surface concentrations of surfactants can dramatically change the wave breaking process by changing the shape of the jet and breaking up the entrained air cavity at the time of jet impact. Direct numerical simulations (DNS) of plunging breakers with constant surface tension are used to show that there is significant compression of the free surface near the plunging jet tip and dilatation elsewhere. To explore the effect of this compression/dilatation, the surface tension isotherm is measured in all experimental cases. The effects of surfactants on the plunging jet are shown to be primarily controlled by the surface tension gradient ($$\Delta \mathcal {E}$$) while the ambient surface tension of the undisturbed wave tank ($$\sigma _0$$) plays a secondary role.
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The influence of spectral bandwidth and shape on deep-water wave breaking onset
Deep-water surface wave breaking affects the transfer of mass, momentum, energy and heat between the air and sea. Understanding when and how the onset of wave breaking will occur remains a challenge. The mechanisms that form unforced steep waves, i.e. nonlinearity or dispersion, are thought to have a strong influence on the onset of wave breaking. In two dimensions and in deep water, spectral bandwidth is the main factor that affects the roles these mechanism play. Existing studies, in which the relationship between spectral bandwidth and wave breaking onset is investigated, present varied and sometimes conflicting results. We perform potential-flow simulations of two-dimensional focused wave groups on deep water to better understand this relationship, with the aim of reconciling existing studies. We show that the way in which steepness is defined may be the main source of confusion in the literature. Locally defined steepness at breaking onset reduces as a function of bandwidth, and globally defined (spectral) steepness increases. The relationship between global breaking onset steepness and spectral shape (using the parameters bandwidth and spectral skewness) is too complex to parameterise in a general way. However, we find that the local surface slope of maximally steep non-breaking waves, of all spectral bandwidths and shapes that we simulate, approaches a limit of$$1/\tan ({\rm \pi} /3)\approx 0.5774$$. This slope-based threshold is simple to measure and may be used as an alternative to existing kinematic breaking onset thresholds. There is a potential link between slope-based and kinematic breaking onset thresholds, which future work should seek to better understand.
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- Award ID(s):
- 2510760
- PAR ID:
- 10627416
- Publisher / Repository:
- Cambridge University Press
- Date Published:
- Journal Name:
- Journal of Fluid Mechanics
- Volume:
- 974
- ISSN:
- 0022-1120
- Format(s):
- Medium: X
- Sponsoring Org:
- National Science Foundation
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- Free Publicly Accessible Full Text
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Accepted Manuscript1.0
- Journal Article:
- https://doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2023.766
