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Abstract Sea‐level change threatens the U.S. East Coast. Thus, it is important to understand the underlying causes, including ocean dynamics. Most past studies emphasized links between coastal sea level and local atmospheric variability or large‐scale circulation and climate, but possible relationships with local ocean currents over the shelf and slope remain largely unexplored. Here we use 7 years of in situ velocity and sea‐level data to quantify the relationship between northeastern U.S. coastal sea level and variable Shelfbreak Jet transport south of Nantucket Island. At timescales of 1–15 days, southern New England coastal sea level and transport vary in anti‐phase, with magnitude‐squared coherences of ∼0.5 and admittance amplitudes of ∼0.3 m Sv⁻¹. These results are consistent with a dominant geostrophic balance between along‐shelf transport and coastal sea level, corroborating a hypothesis made decades ago that was not tested due to the lack of transport data. 

Abstract The behavior and predictability of rip currents (strong, wave‐driven offshore‐directed surfzone currents) have been studied for decades. However, few studies have examined the effects of rip channel morphology on the rip generation or have compared morphodynamic models with observations. Here, simulations conducted with the numerical morphodynamic model MIKE21 reproduce observed trends in flows and bathymetric evolution for two channels dredged across a nearshore sandbar and terrace on an ocean beach near Duck, NC, USA. Channel dimensions, wave conditions, and flows differed between the two cases. In one case, a strong rip current was driven by moderate height, near‐normally incident waves over an approximately 1‐m deep channel with relatively little bathymetric evolution. In the other case, no rip was generated by the large, near‐normally incident waves over the shallower (∼0.5 m) channel, and the channel migrated in the direction of the mean flow and eventually filled in. The model simulated the flow directions, the generation (or not) of rip currents, and the morphological evolution of the channels reasonably well. Model simulations were then conducted for different combinations of the two channel geometries and two wave conditions to examine the relative importance of the waves and morphology to the rip current evolution. The different bathymetries were the dominant factor controlling the flow, whereas both the initial morphology and wave conditions were important for channel evolution. In addition, channel dimensions affected the spatial distribution of rip current forcings and the relative importance of terms. 

Waves running up and down the beach (‘swash’) at the landward edge of the ocean can cause changes to the beach topology, can erode dunes, and can result in inland flooding. Despite the importance of swash, field observations are difficult to obtain in the thin, bubbly, and potentially sediment laden fluid layers. Here, swash excursions along an Atlantic Ocean beach are estimated with a new framework, V-BeachNet, that uses a fully convolutional network to distinguish between sand and the moving edge of the wave in rapid sequences of images. V-BeachNet is trained with 16 randomly selected and manually segmented images of the swash zone, and is used to estimate swash excursions along 200 m of the shoreline by automatically segmenting four 1-h sequences of images that span a range of incident wave conditions. Data from a scanning lidar system are used to validate the swash estimates along a cross-shore transect within the camera field of view. V-BeachNet estimates of swash spectra, significant wave heights, and wave-driven setup (increases in the mean water level) agree with those estimated from the lidar data.