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1. A mixed method exploration of building network ties in the US apparel industry.

   Miller, N. J. (November 2020, International Textiles and Apparel Association)

   Small-sized apparel manufacturing businesses who operate apparel design, development, and production businesses often experience inadequate knowledge in navigating the complex apparel industry. Key concepts in social capital theory suggest that social interactions and people-oriented organizational cultures advance knowledge sharing and network ties. This mixed method exploration of small-sized Colorado-based apparel manufacturers sought to address the research question: Is external knowledge available, and if so, do aspects of social capital play a role in the process? Study 1 involved a qualitative investigation with interviews and business documents suggesting low levels of knowledge sharing, and challenges in learning aspects of the industry. For Study 2, a quantitative analysis was conducted using stepwise multiple regression with independent variables measured by Likert-like scales involving knowledge absorptive capacity, social interaction, and people-oriented organizational culture. Network ties was the dependent variable. All three variables significantly explained networking ties. Exploratory findings provide both theoretical and pragmatic applications. 

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2. Investigating factors impacting U.S. small sized apparel manufacturers’ subjective evaluation of firm performance.

   Miller, Nancy J. (November 2021, International Journal of Business Management and Commerce)

   The purpose of this study was to learn more about U.S. small-sized apparel and sewn products manufacturing firms through an analysis of their firm performance with the multiple aims of improving management practice and advancing the reshoring of U.S. apparel manufacturing. We know relatively little about new companies and small-sized entrepreneurs who operate apparel production businesses, and specifically what impacts their perceptions of firm performance in navigating the complex and rapidly changing apparel industry. We build upon stakeholder theory and the knowledge-based view of the firm. Accordingly, this study involved a quantitative investigation as to what degree the following three attributes explained a subjective evaluation of U.S. apparel producing firm performance; entrepreneurial orientation, new product; and the ability of the firm to acquire knowledge in this competitive industry. Results of hierarchical multiple regression suggest that all three variables predicted significant change in firm performance with an adjusted R2 of 0.29. 

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3. Entrepreneurial Apparel Design, Development and Production: An Embedded Socio-Economic Process

   Miller, N. J. (December 2019, International Textiles and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings)

   Individuals who launch entrepreneurial apparel design, development, and production businesses often experience start-up difficulties associated with resource availability and constraints, as well as incomplete knowledge and perceptions of opportunities in the apparel industry. We examine the concept of embeddedness as a mechanism for accessing resources and for addressing information gaps. This empirical research uses Giddens’ theory of structuration to investigate the conception of entrepreneurship, involved in regional apparel design, development, and production, as an embedded socio-economic process. Application of structuration enables exploration of the link between entrepreneurship (as agent) and the context (as structure); thus, allowing study of how social structures affect or encourage entrepreneurial activity. Qualitative methodology was employed as the objectives were to explore and understand the relationships acquired rather than to measure. Drawing evidence from a longitudinal study of three regional supporting structures and their impact on three entrepreneurial apparel design, development, and production businesses, This research presents an initial investigation into embeddedness over time. 

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4. Fundamental Challenges and Opportunities for Textile Circularity

   https://doi.org/10.3390/su162411117  

   Thomas, Kedron; Durrani, Hira; Brady, Julia; Ludwig, Kendall; Yatvitskiy, Michelle; Clarke-Sather, Abigail R; Cao, Huantian; Cobb, Kelly (December 2024, Sustainability)

   The negative environmental impacts of the current linear system of textile and apparel production are well-documented and require urgent action. The sector lacks an effective recycling system, resulting in massive waste and environmental pollution. This paper presents the results of qualitative research involving textile and apparel industry stakeholders, including representatives from brands and retailers, waste collectors, recyclers, non-profit organizations, academic institutions, and government agencies. Our research focused on stakeholder perceptions of the significance and importance of textile circularity, the challenges that exist for transitioning the textile and apparel industry from a linear system to a circular economy (CE), and resources that exist to support this transition. The results of this study call attention to the following urgent requirements: a consistent definition of CE to promote transparency and accountability and prevent greenwashing; improved systems for materials identification, sorting, and pre-processing of post-consumer textile waste to enable recycling; innovations in mechanical recycling technologies to maintain the value of recycled materials; and new, materials-driven approaches to design and manufacturing that are responsive to feedstock variability and diverse consumer needs. The research findings also suggest the need for flexible, regional CEs that are rooted in community partnerships. 

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5. Theoretical Method for Characterizing Textile Failure Mechanics in Mechanical Recycling With Carded Drums

   https://doi.org/10.1115/MSEC2023-104361  

   Teixeira França Alves, Paulo Henrique; Clarke-Sather, Abigail; Carlson, Sam; Martini, Angela (June 2023, American Society of Mechanical Engineers)

   Due to the increasing speed of production, sale, and discard of home and apparel products, recycling of textiles is important for supporting the UN’s Sustainable Development Goal of Responsible Consumption and Production. In 2020, textile production was estimated to be responsible for 35% of primary microplastics released into the environment, 20% of global clean water pollution, and 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions. In 2018 the US generated around 17 million tons of textile waste and only 14.7% was recycled. Drum-operated textile shredding, a commonly utilized mechanical textile recycling technique, is not yet fully characterized. Even though there are many shredding machines that perform this process, the parameters that influence high-quality fiber output have not been researched; discovering ways to improve reusable fiber output is still a challenge. This research investigates the theory behind carded (toothed) drum textile shredding including how to improve the process outcome in order to obtain more reusable fiber and fewer textile pieces and dust. The mechanics of the textiles and fibers under tensile and shear stresses from the drums and drum teeth respectively were described to relate the textile material failure behavior to shredding process fiber outputs. Focusing on the interactions of the feeding drums and shredding drum, the drum-textile and tooth-yarn failure mechanics were characterized. By decreasing the teeth size and increasing the relative speed between drums, it is expected to increase the shear failure ratio, thus improving the shredding system. With this, it is expected that manufacturing new and better materials from recycled fibers becomes a possibility. 

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