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Abstract An experimental investigation of droplet generation by a plunging breaking wave is presented. In this work, simultaneous measurements of the wave crest profile evolution and of droplets ranging in radius down to 50 μm for a mechanically generated plunging breaker during many repeated breaking events in freshwater are performed. We find three distinct time zones of droplet production, first when the jet impacts the free surface upstream of the wave crest, second when the large air bubbles entrapped by the plunging jet impact reach the free surface and burst, and third when smaller bubbles burst upon reaching the free surface later in the breaking process. These subprocesses account for 22%, 44%, and 34%, respectively, of the average of 653 droplets produced per breaking event. The probability distributions of the ranges of large and small droplet radii are well represented by power law functions that intersect at a radius of 418 μm.
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A Data-Driven Approach to Classifying Wave Breaking in Infrared Imagery
We apply deep convolutional neural networks (CNNs) to estimate wave breaking type (e.g., non-breaking, spilling, plunging) from close-range monochrome infrared imagery of the surf zone. Image features are extracted using six popular CNN architectures developed for generic image feature extraction. Logistic regression on these features is then used to classify breaker type. The six CNN-based models are compared without and with augmentation, a process that creates larger training datasets using random image transformations. The simplest model performs optimally, achieving average classification accuracies of 89% and 93%, without and with image augmentation respectively. Without augmentation, average classification accuracies vary substantially with CNN model. With augmentation, sensitivity to model choice is minimized. A class activation analysis reveals the relative importance of image features to a given classification. During its passage, the front face and crest of a spilling breaker are more important than the back face. For a plunging breaker, the crest and back face of the wave are most important, which suggests that CNN-based models utilize the distinctive ‘streak’ temperature patterns observed on the back face of plunging breakers for classification.
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- Award ID(s):
- 1736389
- PAR ID:
- 10201659
- Date Published:
- Journal Name:
- Remote Sensing
- Volume:
- 11
- Issue:
- 7
- ISSN:
- 2072-4292
- Page Range / eLocation ID:
- 859
- Format(s):
- Medium: X
- Sponsoring Org:
- National Science Foundation
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Abstract The cross‐shore transformation of breaking‐wave roller momentum and energy on observed barred surfzone bathymetry is investigated with a two‐phase Reynolds Averaged Navier Stokes model driven with measured incident waves. Modeled wave spectra, wave heights, and wave‐driven increases in the mean water level (setup) agree well with field observations along transects extending from 5‐m water depth to the shoreline. Consistent with prior results the roller forcing contributes 50%–60% to the setup, whereas the advective terms contribute ∼20%, with the contribution of bottom stress largest (up to 20%) for shallow sandbar crest depths. The model simulations suggest that an energy‐flux balance between wave dissipation, roller energy, and roller dissipation is accurate. However, as little as 70% of the modeled wave energy ultimately dissipated by breaking was first transferred from the wave to the roller. Furthermore, of the energy transferred to the roller, 15%–25% is dissipated by turbulence in the water column below the roller, with the majority of energy dissipated in the aerated region or near the roller‐surface interface. The contributions of turbulence to the momentum balance are sensitive to the parameterized turbulent anisotropy, which observations suggest increases with increasing turbulence intensity. Here, modeled turbulent kinetic energy dissipation decreases with increasing depth of the sandbar crest, possibly reflecting a change from plunging (on the steeper offshore slope of the bar) to spilling breakers (over the flatter bar crest and trough). Thus, using a variable roller front slope in the roller‐wave energy flux balance may account for these variations in breaker type.more » « less
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An experimental study of the dynamics and droplet production in three mechanically generated plunging breaking waves is presented in this two-part paper. In the present paper (Part 1), the dynamics of the three breakers are studied through measurements of the evolution of their free surface profiles during 10 repeated breaking events for each wave. The waves are created from dispersively focused wave packets generated with three wave maker motions that differ primarily by small changes in their overall amplitude. Breaker profiles are measured with a cinematic laser-induced fluorescence technique covering a streamwise region of approximately one breaker wavelength and over a time of 3.4 breaker periods. The aligned profile data is used to create spatio-temporal maps of the ensemble average surface height and the standard deviation of both the local normal distance and the local arc length relative to the instantaneous mean profile. It is found that the mean and standard deviation maps contain strongly correlated localized features and indicate that the transition from laminar to turbulent flow is a highly repeatable process. Regions of high standard deviation include the splash created by the plunging jet impact and subsequent splash impacts at the front of the breaking region as well as the site where the air pocket entrained under the plunging jet at the moment of jet tip impact comes to the surface and pops. In Part 2 (Erininet al., J. Fluid Mech., vol. 967, 2023, A36), these features are used to interpret various features of the distributions of droplet number, diameter and velocity.more » « less
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- Free Publicly Accessible Full Text
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Accepted Manuscript1.0
- Journal Article:
- https://doi.org/10.3390/rs11070859
