Abstract Beach erosion due to large storms critically affects coastal vulnerability, but is challenging to monitor and quantify. Attributing erosion to a specific storm requires a reliable counterfactual scenario: hypothetical beach conditions, absent the storm. Calibrating models to construct counterfactuals requires numerous observations that are rarely available. Storm paths are unpredictable, making long‐term instrumentation of specific beaches costly. Optical remote sensing is hampered by persistent cloud cover. We use Sentinel‐1 satellite radar imagery to monitor shoreline changes through clouds and propose regression discontinuity as a strategy to estimate the causal effect of large storms on beach erosion. Applied to 75 beaches across Puerto Rico, the approach detects shoreline changes with a root‐mean‐square error comparable to the resolution of the imagery. Hurricane Maria caused an erosion of 3 to 5 m along its path, up to 40 m at particular beaches. Results reveal strong local disparities that are consistent with simulated nearshore hydrodynamic conditions.
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Numerical Modeling of Beach Morphological Change: A Case Study of Kaanapali Beach, Maui, Hawaii
This case study reports results from field observations and numerical simulations of waves and morphological changes along a portion of Kaanapali Beach on West Maui, Hawaii, which is protected by a hard coral reef and experiences shoreline changes from season to season. The SWAN spectral wave model shows reasonable agreement with ADCP observations of wave-heights for the winter months. Simulated beach profile change over one-month time frame was able to reasonably capture the trend of beach face migration (accretion or erosion); the modeled shoreline also shows satisfactory agreement with beach survey data. This case study suggests that Delft3D is able to capture key features of sediment transport along a narrow beach protected by a fringing reef.
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- Award ID(s):
- 1706938
- PAR ID:
- 10299451
- Date Published:
- Journal Name:
- International Journal of Ocean and Coastal Engineering
- Volume:
- 03
- Issue:
- 01n02
- ISSN:
- 2529-8070
- Page Range / eLocation ID:
- 2050002
- Format(s):
- Medium: X
- Sponsoring Org:
- National Science Foundation
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