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We investigate wind wave growth by direct numerical simulations solving for the two-phase Navier–Stokes equations. We consider the ratio of the wave speed $$c$$ to the wind friction velocity $$u_*$$ from $$c/u_*= 2$$ to 8, i.e. in the slow to intermediate wave regime; and initial wave steepness $ak$ from 0.1 to 0.3; the two being varied independently. The turbulent wind and the travelling, nearly monochromatic waves are fully coupled without any subgrid-scale models. The wall friction Reynolds number is 720. The novel fully coupled approach captures the simultaneous evolution of the wave amplitude and shape, together with the underwater boundary layer (drift current), up to wave breaking. The wave energy growth computed from the time-dependent surface elevation is in quantitative agreement with that computed from the surface pressure distribution, which confirms the leading role of the pressure forcing for finite amplitude gravity waves. The phase shift and the amplitude of the principal mode of surface pressure distribution are systematically reported, to provide direct evidence for possible wind wave growth theories. Intermittent and localised airflow separation is observed for steep waves with small wave age, but its effect on setting the phase-averaged pressure distribution is not drastically different from that of non-separated sheltering. We find that the wave form drag force is not a strong function of wave age but closely related to wave steepness. In addition, the history of wind wave coupling can affect the wave form drag, due to the wave crest shape and other complex coupling effects. The normalised wave growth rate we obtain agrees with previous studies. We make an effort to clarify various commonly adopted underlying assumptions, and to reconcile the scattering of the data between different previous theoretical, numerical and experimental results, as we revisit this longstanding problem with new numerical evidence.
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Breaking wave field statistics with a multi-layer model
The statistics of breaking wave fields are characterised within a novel multi-layer framework, which generalises the single-layer Saint-Venant system into a multi-layer and non-hydrostatic formulation of the Navier–Stokes equations. We simulate an ensemble of phase-resolved surface wave fields in physical space, where strong nonlinearities, including directional wave breaking and the subsequent highly rotational flow motion, are modelled, without surface overturning. We extract the kinematics of wave breaking by identifying breaking fronts and their speed, for freely evolving wave fields initialised with typical wind wave spectra. The $$\varLambda (c)$$ distribution, defined as the length of breaking fronts (per unit area) moving with speed $$c$$ to $$c+{\rm d}c$$ following Phillips ( J. Fluid Mech. , vol. 156, 1985, pp. 505–531), is reported for a broad range of conditions. We recover the $$\varLambda (c) \propto c^{-6}$$ scaling without wind forcing for sufficiently steep wave fields. A scaling of $$\varLambda (c)$$ based solely on the root-mean-square slope and peak wave phase speed is shown to describe the modelled breaking distributions well. The modelled breaking distributions are in good agreement with field measurements and the proposed scaling can be applied successfully to the observational data sets. The present work paves the way for simulations of the turbulent upper ocean directly coupled to a realistic breaking wave dynamics, including Langmuir turbulence, and other sub-mesoscale processes.
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- Award ID(s):
- 2122042
- PAR ID:
- 10441138
- Date Published:
- Journal Name:
- Journal of Fluid Mechanics
- Volume:
- 968
- ISSN:
- 0022-1120
- Format(s):
- Medium: X
- Sponsoring Org:
- National Science Foundation
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- Free Publicly Accessible Full Text
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Accepted Manuscript1.0
- Journal Article:
- https://doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2023.522
