Abstract During a storm, as the beach profile is impacted by increased wave forcing and rapidly changing water levels, sand berms may help mitigate erosion of the backshore. However, the mechanics of berm morphodynamics have not been fully described. In this study, 26 trials were conducted in a large wave flume to explore the response of a near‐prototype berm to scaled storm conditions. Sensors were used to quantify hydrodynamics, sheet flow dynamics, and berm evolution. Results indicate that berm overtopping and offshore sediment transport were key processes causing berm erosion. During the morphological evolution of the beach profile, two sand bars were formed offshore that attenuated subsequent wave energy. The landward extent of that energy was confined to the seaward foreshore, inhibiting inundation of the backshore. Net offshore‐directed transport was dominant when infragravity motions increased in the swash zone. Conversely, the influence of incident‐band motions on sediment transport was relatively greater in the inner‐surf zone. Near‐bed flow velocities and sheet flow layer thicknesses were larger in the swash zone than in the inner‐surf zone. This paper also provides a valuable analysis between morphology‐estimated total sediment transport rates and rates derived from in situ measurements. Sheet flow dynamics dominated foreshore cross‐shore sediment processes, constituting the largest portion of the total sediment transport load throughout the berm erosion.
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Investigating wave shape effect on sediment transport over migrating ripples using an eulerian two-phase model
A Reynolds-averaged two-phase Eulerian model for sediment transport, SedFoam, is utilized in a twodimensional domain for a given sediment grain size, flow period, and mobility number to study the asymmetric and skewed flow effects on the sediment transport over coarse-sand migrating ripples. First, the model is validated with a full-scale water tunnel experiment of orbital ripple driven by acceleration skewed (asymmetric) oscillatory flow with good agreement in the flow velocity, net sediment transport, and ripple migration rate. The model results showed that the asymmetric flow causes a net onshore sediment transport of both suspended and near-bed load (the conventional bed load and part of the near-bed suspended load, responsible for ripple migration). The suspended load transport is driven by the “positive phase-lag” effect, while the near-bed transport is due to the large erosion of the boundary layer on the stoss flank, sediment avalanching on the lee flank, and the returning flux induced by the stoss vortex. Together, these processes result in a net onshore transport rate. In contrast, for an energetic velocity skewed (skewed) flow, the net transport rate is offshore directed. This is due to a larger offshore-directed suspended load transport rate, resulting from the “negative phase-lag” effect, compared to the onshore-directed near-bed load transport rate. Compared to the asymmetric flow, the onshore near-bed load transport (and migration) rate is limited by the larger offshore directed flux associated with returning flow on the lee side, due to a stronger lee vortex generation during the onshore flow half-cycle. In the combined asymmetric-skewed case, the near-bed load and migration rate are higher than in the asymmetric flow case. Moreover, the offshore-directed suspended load is much smaller compared to the skewed flow case due to a competition between the negative (due to velocity skewness) and positive (due to acceleration skewness) phase-lag effects. As a result, the net transport rate is onshore directed but slightly smaller than the asymmetric flow case.
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- Award ID(s):
- 2242113
- PAR ID:
- 10501760
- Publisher / Repository:
- Elsevier
- Date Published:
- Journal Name:
- Coastal Engineering
- Volume:
- 189
- Issue:
- C
- ISSN:
- 0378-3839
- Page Range / eLocation ID:
- 104470
- Format(s):
- Medium: X
- Sponsoring Org:
- National Science Foundation
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