skip to main content
US FlagAn official website of the United States government
dot gov icon
Official websites use .gov
A .gov website belongs to an official government organization in the United States.
https lock icon
Secure .gov websites use HTTPS
A lock ( lock ) or https:// means you've safely connected to the .gov website. Share sensitive information only on official, secure websites.

Explore Research Products in the PAR
It may take a few hours for recently added research products to appear in PAR search results.


Title: Field Evidence of Inverse Energy Cascades in the Surfzone
Abstract Low-frequency currents and eddies transport sediment, pathogens, larvae, and heat along the coast and between the shoreline and deeper water. Here, low-frequency currents (between 0.1 and 4.0 mHz) observed in shallow surfzone waters for 120 days during a wide range of wave conditions are compared with theories for generation by instabilities of alongshore currents, by ocean-wave-induced sea surface modulations, and by a nonlinear transfer of energy from breaking waves to low-frequency motions via a two-dimensional inverse energy cascade. For these data, the low-frequency currents are not strongly correlated with shear of the alongshore current, with the strength of the alongshore current, or with wave-group statistics. In contrast, on many occasions, the low-frequency currents are consistent with an inverse energy cascade from breaking waves. The energy of the low-frequency surfzone currents increases with the directional spread of the wave field, consistent with vorticity injection by short-crested breaking waves, and structure functions increase with spatial lags, consistent with a cascade of energy from few-meter-scale vortices to larger-scale motions. These results include the first field evidence for the inverse energy cascade in the surfzone and suggest that breaking waves and nonlinear energy transfers should be considered when estimating nearshore transport processes across and along the coast.  more » « less
Award ID(s):
1948137
PAR ID:
10204006
Author(s) / Creator(s):
;
Date Published:
Journal Name:
Journal of Physical Oceanography
Volume:
50
Issue:
8
ISSN:
0022-3670
Page Range / eLocation ID:
2315 to 2321
Format(s):
Medium: X
Sponsoring Org:
National Science Foundation
More Like this
  1. ; ; ; (, Physics of Fluids)
    Low-frequency, many-minute-period horizontal surfzone eddies are an important mechanism for the dispersion of material, transporting larvae, pollutants, sediment, and swimmers both across and along the nearshore. Previous numerical, laboratory, and field observations on alongshore uniform bathymetry with no or roughly uniform mean background flows suggest that the low-frequency eddies may be the result of a two-dimensional inverse energy cascade that transfers energy from relatively small spatial-scale vorticity injected by depth limited breaking waves to larger and larger spatial scales. Here, using remotely sensed high-spatial resolution estimates of currents, those results are extended to surfzones with strong complex mean circulation patterns [flows O(1 m/s)] owing to nonuniform bathymetry. Similar to previous results, wavenumber spectra and second-order structure functions calculated from the observations are consistent with a two-dimensional inverse energy cascade. The size of the largest eddies is shown to depend on the surfzone width and the spatial scales of the mean currents. Third-order structure functions also are consistent with an inverse cascade for spatial scales greater than ∼50 m. At smaller scales, the third-order structure functions suggest a mixture of inverse and forward cascades. 
    more » « less
  2. ; ; (, Geophysical Research Letters)
    Abstract In the surfzone, breaking‐wave generated eddies and vortices transport material along the coast and offshore to the continental shelf, providing a pathway from land to the ocean. Here, surfzone vorticity is investigated with unique field observations obtained during a wide range of wave and bathymetric conditions on an Atlantic Ocean beach. Small spatial‐scale [O(10 m)] vorticity estimated with a 5 m diameter ring of 14 current meters deployed in ∼2 m water depth increased as the directional spread of the wave field increased. Large spatial‐scale [O(100 m)] vorticity calculated from remote sensing estimates of currents across the surfzone along 200 m of the shoreline increased as alongshore bathymetric variability (channels, bars, bumps, holes) increased. For all bathymetric conditions, large‐scale vorticity in the inner surfzone was more energetic than in the outer surfzone. 
    more » « less
  3. ; ; ; (, Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology)
    Abstract Currents transport sediment, larvae, pollutants, and people across and along the surfzone, creating a dynamic interface between the coastal ocean and shore. Previous field studies of nearshore flows primarily have relied on relatively low spatial resolution deployments of in situ sensors, but the development of remote sensing techniques using optical imagery and naturally occurring foam as a flow tracer has allowed for high spatial resolution observations (on the order of a few meters) across the surfzone. Here, algorithms optical current meter (OCM) and particle image velocimetry (PIV) are extended from previous surfzone applications and used to estimate both cross-shore and alongshore 2-, 10-, and 60-min mean surface currents in the nearshore using imagery from both oblique and nadir viewing angles. Results are compared with in situ current meters throughout the surfzone for a wide range of incident wave heights, directions, and directional spreads. Differences between remotely sensed flows and in situ current meters are smallest for nadir viewing angles, where georectification is simplified. Comparisons of 10-min mean flow estimates from a nadir viewing angle with in situ estimates of alongshore and cross-shore currents had correlationsr2= 0.94 and 0.51 with root-mean-square differences (RMSDs) = 0.07 and 0.16 m s−1for PIV andr2= 0.88 and 0.44 with RMSDs = 0.08 and 0.22 m s−1for OCM. Differences between remotely sensed and in situ cross-shore current estimates are at least partially owing to the difference between onshore-directed mass flux on the surface and offshore-directed undertow in the mid–water column. 
    more » « less
  4. ; ; ; ; ; ; (, Journal of Physical Oceanography)
    Abstract Submesoscale currents and internal gravity waves achieve an intense turbulent cascade near the ocean surface [depth of 0–O(100) m], which is thought to give rise to significant energy sources and sinks for mesoscale eddies. Here, we characterize the contributions of nonwave currents (NWCs; including eddies and fronts) and internal gravity waves (IGWs; including near-inertial motions, lee waves, and the internal wave continuum) to near-surface submesoscale turbulence in the Drake Passage. Using a numerical simulation, we combine Lagrangian filtering and a Helmholtz decomposition to identify NWCs and IGWs and to characterize their dynamics (rotational versus divergent). We show that NWCs and IGWs contribute in different proportions to the inverse and forward turbulent kinetic energy cascades, based on their dynamics and spatiotemporal scales. Purely rotational NWCs cause most of the inverse cascade, while coupled rotational–divergent components of NWCs and coupled NWC–IGWs cause the forward cascade. The cascade changes direction at a spatial scale at which motions become increasingly divergent. However, the forward cascade is ultimately limited by the motions’ spatiotemporal scales. The bulk of the forward cascade (80%–95%) is caused by NWCs and IGWs of small spatiotemporal scales (L< 10 km;T< 6 h), which are primarily rotational: submesoscale eddies, fronts, and the internal wave continuum. These motions also cause a significant part of the inverse cascade (30%). Our results highlight the requirement for high spatiotemporal resolutions to diagnose the properties and large-scale impacts of near-surface submesoscale turbulence accurately, with significant implications for ocean energy cycle study strategies. 
    more » « less
  5. ; ; (, Journal of Physical Oceanography)
    Abstract Rip currents are generated by surfzone wave breaking and are ejected offshore inducing inner-shelf flow spatial variability (eddies). However, surfzone effects on the inner-shelf flow spatial variability have not been studied in realistic models that include both shelf and surfzone processes. Here, these effects are diagnosed with two nearly identical twin realistic simulations of the San Diego Bight over summer to fall where one simulation includes surface gravity waves (WW) and the other that does not (NW). The simulations include tides, weak to moderate winds, internal waves, submesoscale processes, and have surfzone width L sz of 96(±41) m (≈ 1 m significant wave height). Flow spatial variability metrics, alongshore root mean square vorticity, divergence, and eddy cross-shore velocity, are analyzed in a L sz normalized cross-shore coordinate. At the surface, the metrics are consistently (> 70%) elevated in the WW run relative to NW out to 5 L sz offshore. At 4 L sz offshore, WW metrics are enhanced over the entire water column. In a fixed coordinate appropriate for eddy transport, the eddy cross-shore velocity squared correlation betweenWWand NW runs is < 0.5 out to 1.2 km offshore or 12 time-averaged L sz . The results indicate that the eddy tracer ( e.g. , larvae) transport and dispersion across the inner-shelf will be significantly different in the WW and NW runs. The WW model neglects specific surfzone vorticity generation mechanisms. Thus, these inner-shelf impacts are likely underestimated. In other regions with larger waves, impacts will extend farther offshore. 
    more » « less
  • Citation Formats
  • MLA
  • APA
  • Chicago
  • BibTeX
  • Save / Share this Record
  • Send to Email